We tried to listen, but the excitement was just too much, we grabbed our towels and ran.  We loved those unpredictable waves, telling each other , “go farther”  to see who would be knocked down first. We love the water, at home the fast rushing river or creek, or the calm smooth lake, tasting nice and cool when you got it in your mouth.  The ocean was a whole new world every summer, salty and stinging, scary and exciting.  There was just no time for sunscreen…  if we had only realized how much time would be lost, when we could have been in the waves.

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